DAY 78 Don’t quote me on this but I think I saw some grass that was just over 10 inches long this morning… I could be wrong! I arrived at ‘Kandergas’. I hadn’t had chance to wash since Sunday evening, I was a special kind of filthy. ‘Obese Fella’ on the bus, deserts, no mans […]
Don't quote me on this but I think I saw some grass that was just over 10 inches long this morning... I could be wrong!
I arrived at 'Kandergas'. I hadn't had chance to wash since Sunday evening, I was a special kind of filthy. 'Obese Fella' on the bus, deserts, no mans lands, waiting in dusty filth, incredible heat accomponied it all... creating layers on layers. The taps were bust on the train, Kandergras train stations facilities were vile, yet it had an enormous pure bronze paneled ceiling. My feet were black, I must of stank to the highest of heavens... I dreamed of a shower, yet that would mean a trip down the 'Rabbit hole' with no guarantee of success. I was exhausted and just wanted to sit. My train left at 20:20... I had around 3 hours. The only possible way I could think of getting a shower or just a good wash was to befriend a local somehow and get in their house. I just could not be bothered. I sat myself down way off, along and beyond the platform on a step in the shade. It was a great railway station... enormous cargo trains coming and going along rows of around 20 train tracks butted together, the odd passenger train, the odd beautiful woman. I sat their with the video camera all afternoon willing ravens to fly off their perch just as 3 trains would intersect in one gap where the Camera was pointed. I managed to get a few.
The Camera attracted attention. The steps where i sat lead to a door that had now opened...opening up the 'Rabbit hole' with it. It took a while but amidst the throng that gathered the right kind of guy with the right face came along. He was my ticket to 'Cleansville' and it proved to be a Golden one.
I wafted my stinking pits and held up 5 fingers (meaning days), he twinkled his fingers above his head....." YES.....SHOWER!" I beamed. The women laughed and off I trotted down through the desert back roads. He lead me to a Kazakh-Turkish baths thing,then headed off. I walked into the changing rooms to be greeted by 2 huge Sumo wrestler size guys, an average guy and a 7 year old kid with half his head shaven with the back left to feed the platted pony tail hanging down his back. It was the 'The Golden Child'.
Great fella's from the off... my new pals escorted me into the main tiled bathing area, handed me my plastic basin, pointed out the seperate water troughs and their purpose... hot, cold, disinfectant and rinse etc. I got down to some serious cleansing. Turns out one of the Sumo guys was chief of Police in Kandergas, the other Sumo guy was in the natural Gas game and father of the Golden Child. The other guy kept to himself.
Their was a fair old system at play to all this and they were only too pleased to keep me in check. The Golden Child handed me a flanneled glove and slipped it on to my right hand as the 2 Sumo guys opened a door for me... Golden Child lead me through.
Just like any other Thursday afternoon. Their I was standing starfished and naked in a one Chicken town, wash house - hot room in the middle of a Kazakh desert I couldn't name, getting brayed by bunches of Bay leaves by the hand of 2 Sumo wrestlers and the Golden Child.
I could not dream of a better clean... a good 40 minutes of pore opening health topped off with an ice cold beer and a red hot Chi tea, sitting starkers with my new pals back in the changing rooms.
The train to Kandergas must of been 1st class. I was in an open carriage with the masses on this one. Still relatively comfortable, I was an instant success this time. I was more physically placed in the middle of a familys cordened enclosure this time... members of the rest of the train were cordially invited to come and sit with them and the English man for allotted periods of time. When the family were done with me the area quickly got transformed into 6 perfectly comfortable beds. I was sent packing like a piece of meat with strict orders to return in the morning with the Guitar.